Riding the wild water

Finally we got some swell in the right direction yesterday. I checked it around 9.30 and I walked round the bend to where you get a clear view at the cliff lift and a massive set was rolling in. Clean, glassy long rolling waves with a bit of morning sun sparkling off them. It looked good enough to be in surf movie but I new at that very moment that my surf today will be one resigned to the white water and any small nifty ones that come through in between big sets.

I’d acquired all the necessary insulation over the last couple of weeks so went out fully suited, booted, hooded and gloved. It was a cold walk down to the sea and I could sea my breath but it surprisingly mild when I took my first steps into the water.

I managed to catch some pretty hefty rumblers and also a couple of peaking clean ones that had sneaked through the sets. All in all I was pretty happy with my decision  not to even attempt getting out back. I had much more fun this way and I new it was time to go back in once I couldn’t feel much of my finger tips!

There is some 15 foot swell forecast for this week!! Don’t think I’ll be heading out there but it always good to watch from the hill top. Hopefully it will die down and have a nice day before I go away next weekend.


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