Summer fun times

Sooooo long since I up dated this and that is because of the depressing news that I haven’t been getting my toes anywhere near that sea! It’s been gardening time and as soon as I knew that was all sorted then I could take another dip. Walking to the allotment was a hard task as I had to pass the sea and look out at some pretty neat swell.

The day came when there was nothing else on my list. House hold chores were completed by mid day, record label duties fulfilled, all i had to do was wolf down a bowl of pasta and get suited and booted. The waves were getting better as the evening drew closer and i was getting excited. Perfect Sophie wave, 2/3 foot, high tide, sweet!

And I was not disappointed. I had so much FUN. The small area where the waves were breaking was crammed but full of friendly faces and most were on long boards so catching stuff way out back. I struggled for a bit and then move slightly further in from the crowd to catch some sneaky short ones. it totally paid off. I caught plenty of clean waves and rode them well. My pop up is still rather shambolic but I did get to my feet on all of them and felt totally stoked from all the waves. I think I have finally got used to my board. Just need to speed up that pop up and I’ll be away. Can’t wait to not wear boots. I reckon that will help as the toe of my boot usually drags on the board which doesn’t help.

After that evening the swell got stupidly massive and the wind has picked up so the sea has red flags now. No one is going out in that mess! Probably have a good couple of days small swell once this passes. I can’t bloody wait to get back in.

More good news…my mate is going on tour in October so I am going to look after his boards. Magic carpet single fin, which was supposed to be mine anyway and a 9 footer long board, which i have had a go on before and enjoyed enormously. Woooooo!

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