All there is to say is WHOOOOOP!

The swell over the last few days has been absolutely perfect for me and my board it seems. I have had some of the best sessions and I have started to feel so comfortable on my board.
On Monday I went out at around 7pm and the small 3 footers turned super glassy. I took Howells advise and got out back. There wasn’t much white water to get through so I managed it no probs. The little nippy waves were so much fun and there wasn’t that many folk out scrambling to catch everything going. I caught a few swift ones, popped up and rode them pretty well. Neil commented on how I had improved and was catching way more waves that I went for.
I then swapped boards with Neil and had a go on his 7′ Magic Carpet. It was a board that originally had my eye on but couldn’t afford so Neil bought it instead. This was the first time I had tried it out and boy was it hard work! I completely wore myself out just paddling around. Although I did get my first opportunity to try out duck diving, which was kind of cool.
So after failing miserable to catch anything on that I quickly got my Vudu back and waited for my last wave to take me in. It was around 10 o’clock and the sunset and sky was unbelievable. Completely pink clouds and the last orange tints of sun breaking through. It was a fantastic way to celebrate the summer solstice.
I finally dragged myself out of the water, totally exhausted, still with the steps up the bank to climb before I could get home and collapse.

On Tuesday I got up early and went out to check if there was any remains of the swell. There was a small wave but the wind wasn’t helping it. I was a rather pleased as my muscles had received a right batter from the night battering from the night before. Later that day though it got so sweet. About to set off to the allotment I walked past the seafront and headed straight back home to get suited and booted. It was nearly high tide so I knew there wasn’t much left in it. But the time I was in was great, AGAIN! This time the waves were slow and about 1.5/2 foot so i decided to practice my pop up. I have been dragging my knee and hesitating a bit too much on getting to my feet. So I decided I had to be determined and just get right up. i messed up more then I would if I had carried on with my style but I knew it was for the best. I managed a couple of good ones and still got some good rides. One nearly took me through the pier! Well I got half way and then fell off, but hey, I thought that was pretty spectacular. Good buzzzzzz

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: