Board kicks, suit rips and birthday books

Been out for a surf this morning, it was pretty good. It looked like this just before I went in.

My pop up is still gash as anything. I just can’t seem to do it quick enough. Sometimes I hesitate because I think I’m going to nose dive, others I get stuck in a pathetic kneeling position. But once in a while I catch a clean wave and jump to it. These moments of joy are becoming more frequent so that’s a good sign. I caught a belter this morning, probably only around 2 foot. I timed it just right and popped up with the leash neatly tucked between the toes of my left foot. Now this is not some fancy new technique I am trying to perfect, more a pain in the bloody arse. Rather then bailing though I caught the wave and just flicked my foot out once I was standing and the offending cord was successfully removed. I bet it looked like a pretty cool little move if anyone was watching.

My cheap knackered wetsuit became even more knackered. The seam I repaired has popped open again and I now adorn a sexy little slit on the left hand side of my chest. I bumped into Tom life guarding, on my way up the promenade and he thought I was flashing a bit of flesh for the lads. This is about as sexy as it gets on the North East Coast I’m afraid.

When I got back I was welcomed with a lovely belated birthday surprise. One of my bezza mates, Steven Nuttall had sent me a wonderful seasonal spanish food recipe book. I am going to make something from it right now to satisfy my surfer hunger. Lots of salt!

One Response to “Board kicks, suit rips and birthday books”
  1. matt says:

    Looks like you had a nice session. The photo of the line-up is great. I love surfing next to piers.

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