A lucky surfer girls bedroom and shower

Ooh er! Sorry nothing saucy in this post, just more boring surf related ramblings.

I have strategically moved my bedroom furniture round so that my bed  now looks out directly onto the surf. As soon as I wake up on a morning I can just pull the curtain back and see if there are any lines rolling in.

All week there has been a massive easterly swell that has been far too big and fierce for me. I have witnessed someone getting smashed and tangled into the pier and Neil had a similar incident so I think I am wise to of stayed out of the sea. Today though the swell had dropped to a few foot. At 8 o’clock I got a text from Neil saying him and Nick were going in, so I checked it, ate breakfast and suited up. Striding out I could definitely feel the rip but got out back and said my hellos to the folks. Neil, Nick, Sam and Zoee were all out. Talk about having the pressure on to not make a total idiot of myself in front of some of the nicest and graceful long boarders! They make it look so easy and of course I was unable to catch a single wave.

After a little while a caught a couple but didn’t manage to ride them. I got a total spinning wipe out that knocked me for 6 but was still a lot of fun. I took too long getting to my feet and the wave suddenly sucked up underneath so I nose dived and spun round and round. The things I get up to at 9 in the morning!

Most of the guys went in but I paddled over towards the river mouth where I could see some lovely clean rights breaking. The wind really started to pick up and it was a lot of hard work paddling to catch waves. Especially when you get a load of spray in your face and are pretty much doing it blind. I did catch one nice one that I rode for a while. It was a weird wave and a strange experience dealing with the strong wind. I really had to alter my position and balance to compensate. I left the water on a high and struggled to carry my board all the way back across the beach without the wind ripping it out of my arms.

I stopped off at the surf shop on my way home and both Nick and Zoee said it was a hard wave to catch so not to worry that I didn’t have much luck. I’m sure they just said it to make me feel better and not let my confidence get knocked. Luckily I think I have reached a point where I am more than happy to have crap surfs as I know that all the practice is good and there is something to learn from every attempt. One good thing to always look forward to is a really hot powerful shower. Ahhhh, a surfers best friend. Get in.


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