Backwash is the BEST

Fun times were had yesterday afternoon. In the dying remnants of the recent swell, I went back in for what I thought would be a mellow little ride.  There were only a few people out and Lizzy and Tom were on their way in. As the tide pushed in everyone gathered close to the right hand side of the pier. It was one of the highest tides and it soon started crashing up against the   wall. A little threatening to look at but one of the most fun waves I have ever ridden. Every so often a decent sized swell came through and although it got a bit crowed, the folks who could catch waves managed to get some gooduns. Me included. Yeah! The best bit about it was being met with some of the back wash flowing under and lifting the front of the board, kind of like doing a ollie. I had to keep my knees bendy and sometimes it was so sudden and big it made me throw my arms up in the air. All I could do was whoooop. Good times, good times.

Unfortunately my excitement was quashed when I got home and couldn’t find my front door key. No one was home so I had to traipse through town in my wet suit, with my board to my mums. She had no hot water for a shower and I had to unearth any clothes that might fit me. I stayed the night and returned home this morning only to find the bloody key where I usually leave it but pushed far back. Arrrgggghhhhh.

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